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Research on Contact Comfort of the Seam Allowance between the Knitted and Woven Fabrics

Author: ZhaoLiuYun
Tutor: BaoWeiJun
School: Zhejiang University of Technology
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: Knitted and Woven Fabrics seam allowance contact comfort physical properties perception
CLC: TS941.4
Type: Master's thesis
Year: 2011
Downloads: 85
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Abstract


In recent years, the clothing composed of the knitted fabric sewed with woven fabric appear in a large nunber, Which not only riches the knitting clothing,but also improves the properties of the knitting clothing, because knitted fabrics have strong elasticity, rolled selvedge and easily scattered selvedge. For example, if a knitting dress is sewed with woven fabric in the elbow, side seam, overlap, collar, and so on, it will not be out of shape and be easily broken. At the same time, if a woven dress is sewed with knitted sleeve, it is still stiff and tangible, and people will move easily when dress it. When a woven dress is sewed with knitted fabric in the body where there is big radian, it will highlight the curve of body without dart. Along with the develepment of the multivariate, individual fashion design, the combination of knitted fabric sewed with woven fabric can increase the visual feeling of texture which is formed by the different material. But the properties of the combination composed of knitted fabric sewed with woven fabric has not been tested and verified, so the research on the compatibility between them and the comfort of clothing with the combinaotin of both fabric is necessary.Based on those above, this paper design a experiment aiming at the contact comfort of the seam allowance beteewn the knitted fabric and woven fabric. Firstly, through colecting information and literature both home and abroad about the perception of contact comfort, we get the subjective experiment index which inclued the feel of heat and cold, roughness, tingling, itching, stiffness and massiness. And then through previous studies of the relationship beteewn the physical propertis and perception of fabrics, we get the objective experiment index which include gram weight, thickness in diferent pressure,surface thickness, bending stiffness, Shear rigidity,tensile properties,surface friction and surface roughness.In this paper, we get the properties of knitted sample, woven sample and the combination with seam allowance of both types fabric through FAST style tester and KES-FB4 surface property tester. Then use the charts and SPSS software to carry on the comparative analysis about the physical properties between the knitted fabric and woven fabric before and after sewing. Through Non-parameter test and the contrast of growth rate of every physical property, we get the conclusion that there are significant difference on physical properties between the knitted fabric and woven fabric before and after sewing. And then through the analysis of intuitive charts and accurate growth rate, we prove that the properties of the sewed combination of the knitted fabric and woven fabric is significant bigger than the single samples.This paper carries on subjective experiment with forearm experiment, and has developed a attitude test measure. Through Reliability analysis and Friedman test for subjective test data, we have proved that they are reliable and effective, and the attitude test measure is sensitive, effective. Then analyse the relationship between subjective index and the overall contact comfort with Correlation analysis and Ordinal Regression analysis, and get the prediction model of the overall contact comfort based on the feel of heat and cold,roughness, tingling,itching, stiffness and massiness. Then based on the physical properties analyse the every index of subjective perception with multi-element linear regression analysis, we obtained precise equation for the physical properties of seam allowance and the subjective perception, and through physical performance we can predict the probability of some degree of contact comfort. At last we obtained the conclusion that gram weight, thickness T2, thickness T100, surface thickness, bending stiffness are the main physical factors which affect the contact comfort the of seam allowance.

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