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Developmental Research of Knitting Fabrics Containing Hemp

Author: ShaoJiChao
Tutor: GuoFengZhi；QiXiaoZuo
School: Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: hemp knitting fabrics blending yarns textures dyeing and finishing
CLC: TS121
Type: Master's thesis
Year: 2010
Downloads: 195
Quote: 2
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Abstract


For satisfyingly employing the excellent performance of Chinese hemp fibers and applying them into spring and summer knitwear, this research spun fibers by compact spinning and blended hemp fiber with some other fibers (cotton, modal, polyester, viscose) in different proportions. Comparing with traditional ring spinning, compacting spinning offers some advantages, such like increasing utilization rate of hemp fiber markedly, improving yarn levelness and the fineness of fiber surface, further for well going in the following knitting process. In consideration of hemp`s special properties, the knitting progress was changed or improved. At last, we got seven kinds of yarns: H 100; H/C 55/45; H/C/M 40/30/30; H/C/M 35/32.5/32.5; H/T 40/60; H/C/T 30/35/35; H/C/R/N 20/45/20/15. The capital letters stand for different meanings: H, hemp; C, cotton; M, modal; T, polyester; R, viscose; N, nylon.Next, we applied the seven categories of yarns to knitting, and choose three different textures according to the need of spring-summer fabrics: flat knitting, interlock knitting and multiplex knitting. In connection with different yarns and different need of fabrics, twenty kinds of textures of fabrics were designed, and we use appropriate knitting loom to get required semifinished fabric. There are lots of problems in the process, so we readjusted the looms and environment condition.Choose a strengthened condition to deal with the semifinished fabrics to get rid of the impurities, waxiness and pigment etc. Also, some surface-active agents are needed in the process to modify fabrics` moisture property which is prepared for the following dyeing procedure. The dyeing procedure included polyester-dyeing and hemp-dyeing, the single bath process which contains hemp-dyeing is for the sake of fabric without polyester; on the opposite, the two bath process containing polyester-dyeing and hemp dyeing is towards fabrics including polyester. we gave the fabrics softening treatment to improve their touch. At last, several kinds of fabrics were chosen for basic properties test.

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CLC: > Industrial Technology > Light industry,handicrafts > Textile industry,dyeing and finishing industry > Jute mills > Basic science
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