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The Research on the Efficacy, Action Mechanism and Application of Chinese Traditional Medicine in Cosmetics

Author: LinZuo
Tutor: DongYinMao
School: Beijing Technology and Business University
Course: Applied Chemistry
Keywords: Penetration enhancers Traditional Chinese medicine Cosmetic Mechanism
CLC: TQ658
Type: Master's thesis
Year: 2010
Downloads: 217
Quote: 0
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Abstract


Transdermal absorption of cosmetic active ingredients in the cosmetics industry has become a research focus in recent years. Some chemical penetration enhancers because of its toxic side effects, the application is limited, which makes cosmetics penetration enhancers development goals to gradually shift the natural herbal plants. By Angelica (INCI: ANGELICA POLYMORPHA SINENSIS ROOT EXTRACT), cloves (INCI name: EUGENIA CARYOPHYLLUS FLOWER EXTRACT), Salvia (INCI name: SALVIA MILTIORRHIZA EXTRACT), cinnamon (INCI: CINNAMOMUM CASSIA) These four herbs physical and chemical properties, security, promote transparent efficacy compared investigate its transdermal penetration mechanism to filter out the best medicine penetration enhancers used in cosmetics formulations to penetration enhancers Chinese medicine for the further development of new and efficient security to the foundation. The results of this study are as follows: 1. Hemolysis experiments show, angelica, clove, Salvia, cinnamon, four herbs irritating significantly lower than that used in cosmetics chemical penetration enhancers Azone, are as topical skin raw . 2. Abdominal skin of guinea pigs for the skin model, respectively cosmetics organic acid (vitamin C the derivatives AA2G), sugars (trehalose) polypeptides (oat peptides), flavonoids (licorice flavonoids) is promoting as positive reference, Franz diffusion cell experiments show that four Chinese medicine to promote transparent efficacy: 1% angelica extract gt; 1% clove extract gt; ≥ 1% 1% Salvia extract positive reference (Azone Azone ) gt; 1% cinnamon extract. And further experiments showed that with the increase in the amount of penetration enhancers, the objects being pro cumulative permeation amount increases, the effect of penetration enhancers: 0.8% Angelica Extract ≥ 1% Azone. 3. Abdominal skin of guinea pigs for the skin detection model, by Franz diffusion cell experiments angelica, cloves, cinnamon, salvia, four extracts each the transdermal penetration effect of vitamin C derivatives AA2G, trehalose, oat peptides, licorice flavonoids, experimental results different traditional Chinese medicine to promote penetration enhancers with different structure was promoting substance does not exist between the structure-activity relationships. 4. Abdominal skin of guinea pig skin model by Franz diffusion cell experiments show, the use of a sample of the active substance (vitamin C derivative AA2G, trehalose, oat polypeptide, licorice flavonoids) permeation amount increases over time, after 12 hours increased speed is slow. And when the after skin passage is opened, the size of the molecular weight of the active substance is the main factors affect its transdermal penetration. Abdominal skin healthy living guinea pig for the experimental material, guinea pig skin slices 1% angelica Chinese medicine penetration enhancers before and after the structural changes observed by HE staining, and nitrogen ketone can be obtained for comparison with the blank and positive reference, with a 1% Angelica solution and treated with a solution of 1% Azone guinea pig stratum corneum of the skin with varying degrees of exfoliation, cuticle significantly thinner. Meanwhile, the use of the treatment of the cuticle of the 1% Angelica solution shedding phenomenon is more evident. The results show that the medicine transdermal penetration enhancers mechanism for the structural changes in the theory, i.e. the medicine penetration enhancers in the stratum corneum of the skin, accelerating skin off, plus the hydrophilic lipophilic group that itself contains both conducive to enter the skin, open skin channels to allow the active material to the transdermal penetration. The traditional medicine penetration enhancers Angelica as cosmetic raw materials used in cosmetics, raw materials and products of various physical and chemical indicators are in line with cosmetic requirements. At the same time, body whitening effect by a three-month evaluation experiment can be drawn, Angelica extract whitening lotion 1% less add angelica extract whitening emulsion compared to products containing 1% Angelica extract melanin content of the skin can reduce, enhance skin brightness. That angelica can promote the penetration of active substances, so as to enhance the efficacy of the product. This study of cosmetics with traditional Chinese medicine penetration enhancers efficacy, mechanism of action and its cosmetic formulations probes into the application, provides a theoretical basis for the selection and application of cosmetics, traditional Chinese medicine to promote transparent agent. Chinese medicine itself has the effect of promoting transparent, but also possesses a different cosmetic effect penetration enhancers, together with its chemical penetration enhancers safer without stimulation, and therefore has a broad application prospects in cosmetics.

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