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Comparison of Related Structure and Properties of Gambiered Guangdong Silk to the Traditional Silk

Author: ZhangXian
Tutor: ZhouWenLong
School: Zhejiang University of Technology
Course: Textile Material and Textiles Design
Keywords: Gambiered Guangdong silk Waterproof breathable properties Anti-UV properties Alkali resistance Anti-UV radiation Home laundering
CLC: TS941.11
Type: Master's thesis
Year: 2011
Downloads: 38
Quote: 0
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Abstract


Gambiered Guangdong silk is a kind of unique summer clothing material popular in south China at 1940s and 1950s, and it is the unique silk in the world, having a long history, unique performance, so it is known as the“black pearl”in silk products and it is very popular for the fisherman in the coastal areas. Gambiered Guangdong silk is made by special processes: using silk, bulk roots of Shuliang Yam Rhizome and specific mud as raw materials, finished by solarization. Because of the use of raw material and complicated production processes, especially highly sunlight dependent technology, this popular production is withering with the industrilization of silk manufacturing. Gambiered Guangdong silk is a natural silk fabric product, but it can not be replicated by large-scale industrial production, thus limiting the development of this old technology. Now there is few research to the gambiered Guangdong silk whether in our country or in abroad, and there is no objective and scientific evaluation to its unique property. This paper tested the structure and properties of gambiered Guangdong silk, and compared with the traditional silk, then analyzed its unique property, providing reference to industrial development of the gambiered Guangdong silk.The results showed that compared with the traditional silk, the warp and weft density of gambiered Guangdong silk was basically unchanged after finishing, but the thickness and weight per square meter significantly increased. The gambiered Guangdong silk’s tensile strength was also increased a little bit, while the tensile elongation at break, tearing strength and wrinkle resistance was decreased. The gambiered Guangdong silk was hydrophobic on surface, but fabric’s moisture regain was increased, moisture permeability was good, displaying the same characteristics of waterproof breathable fabric. The CLO value of gambiered Guangdong silk was a little higher than traditional silk, but was far less than 1, indicating that gambiered Guangdong silk still has cool features. The gambiered Guangdong silk’s UPF value could reach up to 65, indicating excellent natural anti-UV fabric of gambiered Guangdong silk is. And the gambiered Guangdong silk’s inhibitory rate was 36%, so it had some antibacterial effects.The gambiered Guangdong silk’s alkali resistance and anti-UV radiation was significantly increased. As the increase of the concentration of caustic soda and the time of UV irradiation, fabric’s strength had a certain degree of reduction, but the gambiered Guangdong silk’s strength retention was more than traditional silk and had no too much fall. After alkali treatment and UV irradiation, gambiered Guangdong silk and traditional silk’s UPF value also had a certain degree of reduction, but the gambiered Guangdong silk’s strength retention was also more than that of the traditional silk and also had no too much fall. Sweat treatment has no significant effect on the gambiered Guangdong silk’s strength and UPF value.The gambiered Guangdong silk was washed by different laundering cycles, and the fabric’s structure and property after home laundering was investigated. Tests showed that after washing the thickness and weight per square meter of gambiered Guangdong silk was increased, but the warp and weft density was basically unchanged. After home laundering, the tensile strength of gambiered Guangdong silk was significantly reduced, but the fabric still showed good surface hydrophobic. With the increase of the washing cycles, the CLO value of gambiered Guangdong silk was gradually decreased, consisting the traditional view of gambiered Guangdong silk being cooler after wearing. After washing, the UPF value of gambiered Guangdong silk was significantly increased, showing better anti-UV property of gambiered Guangdong silkafter home laundering. But the anti-UV property of traditional silk became poor after home laundering.Analysis showed that the excellent anti-UV property of gambiered Guangdong silk was related to its unique physical and chemical structure, but it should be needed further investigation. The studies show that gambiered Guangdong silk is a real naturally environmental friendly product. It had the natural waterproof breathable and natural anti-UV properties. The gambiered Guangdong silk’s alkali resistance and anti-UV radiation is significantly improved and it is suitable for the summer clothing fabrics.

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CLC: > Industrial Technology > Light industry,handicrafts > Garment industry,footwear industry > Garment industry > Basic theory > Clothing aesthetic,clothing and color science
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